The wait is over, or almost. Pieter Mulier’s Versace debut now has a stage, and it is a Parisian one. In a statement shared exclusively with WWD on 28 October, the Italian house confirmed that Atelier Versace, its haute couture line, will return to the runway during Paris Couture Week, which the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has set for 25 to 28 January 2027.
The exact day and venue are still under wraps: Versace says only that they “will be announced in due course.” What is already clear is the weight of the moment. This will be Mulier’s first collection for the house, and the first dedicated Atelier Versace runway show since July 2016.
Atelier Versace: a couture comeback, ten years on
Couture never really left Versace. Over the past decade, the atelier kept working quietly, crafting one-off pieces for private clients and dressing stars for the red carpet. What vanished was the show itself: the ritual of a full collection revealed to a front row, the format the line was built on under its founder, Gianni Versace.
Mulier has already offered a glimpse. On 31 August, Nicole Kidman arrived at the Los Angeles premiere of “Practical Magic 2” in an asymmetric black lace gown, the first Atelier Versace piece he presented publicly since taking office, as WWD and iMille both reported. One dress, one evening, and enough to set imaginations racing.
Pieter Mulier, from Alaïa to Versace
The Belgian designer, who trained in interior architecture, knows Paris intimately. He spent years alongside Raf Simons, including at Jil Sander and Dior, served as global creative director of Calvin Klein, then took the creative helm of Alaïa in 2021, the first to lead the house after the death of Azzedine Alaïa. Versace announced his appointment as chief creative officer in February 2026, and he officially started on 1 July.
His arrival opens a new era. Prada Group completed its acquisition of Versace in December 2025, in a deal valued at around €1.25 billion. In March, the group had already signalled that Mulier’s vision for the house would unfold in early 2027, according to FashionUnited. The couture date now turns that promise into a calendar entry.
Prada’s leadership is choosing its words with care. Chairman Patrizio Bertelli told WWD that the two companies share “a strong commitment to creativity, craftsmanship and heritage,” with the aim “to continue Versace’s legacy celebrating and reinterpreting its bold and timeless aesthetic.” Chief executive Andrea Guerra sounded just as confident about the work in progress:
“We’re not just looking and talking about ideas, but we’re looking at products at this stage and the team is ready.” — Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada Group, quoted by WWD
Why Paris Couture Week matters
Choosing couture rather than ready-to-wear for a first collection is a statement in itself. Couture is where a house shows what its hands can do: the cut, the embroidery, the hours hidden inside a single silhouette. For a designer who spent five years shaping Alaïa, it is also familiar ground.
For Paris, it adds one more headline name to a dense January. The men’s Fall/Winter 2027-2028 shows run from 19 to 24 January, so couture week follows almost immediately. If you plan to follow the season, our guide to Paris Men’s Fashion Week is a good starting point, and our look back at Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week is a reminder of how one show can redefine a house. Until January, Versace is keeping its secrets.
Sources
- WWD — 28 October 2026
- Style Rave — 28 October 2026
- Design Scene — 28 October 2026
- iMille — 28 October 2026
- FashionUnited — 5 March 2026
- Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode — official 2027 calendar
- Wikipedia — Pieter Mulier — background
- Wikipedia — Versace — background
